My mother hails from Gorakhpur, Uttar Pradesh, where she spent her formative years before embarking on a career that took her across India. Her extensive travels exposed her to the rich diversity of our country’s cities, each with its unique charm and character. While her journeys were often work-related, my own travels are more leisurely and self-directed, yet I find inspiration in her stories of the places she has visited.

Lucknow’s vibrant culture

One city that my mother always spoke fondly of is Lucknow. Known as the city of Tehzeeb (etiquette), Lucknow left a lasting impression on her. She would often recount a charming anecdote about a sweet shop in Gomti Chowk with a signboard that read, “Janab muskuraie, kyunki aap Lucknow mein hain” (Smile, for you are in Lucknow). I vividly remember the day she returned from a business trip to Lucknow during my school days, bringing back what appeared to be minced mutton pancakes known as Galauti Kebab. The burst of flavors and the tender meat melting in the mouth left an indelible mark, sparking a desire within me to experience this culinary delight firsthand in the city that originated it.

Another highlight of her trips to Lucknow was the exquisite Chikan fabric she would often bring back — a treat more cherished by my mother than myself. And then there were the tales of the Lucknow nawabs, which came alive not merely through history books but also through Satyajit Ray’s captivating film “Shatranj ke Khiladi.”

Lucknow — The city of nawabs

Fast forward to early January, after returning from a delightful Rajasthan trip, I found myself in the company of SS-Traveller, reminiscing about his recent visit to Lucknow with his family. His recount of the city’s wonders reignited my longing to explore Lucknow more deeply. The idea of utilizing the upcoming extended weekend from 24th to 26th January for a Lucknow escapade was enthusiastically embraced by us — SS-Traveller with his family and me with my son. We selected my new i20 diesel, Argento, to be our trusty steed for the journey, eager to test its capabilities on a long haul with five enthusiastic travelers on board.

The Journey

Originally planned for an early start on the 24th morning, our departure was postponed to the night due to prior commitments of our companions. After a busy day at the office, we set out from Dwarka at 9 PM, picking up SS-Traveller’s family en route. Despite the late hour and my fatigue, I gladly handed over the driving reins to SS-Traveller, who expertly navigated us out of Delhi.

As we approached the Yamuna Expressway, a cautionary signboard warned of severe fog ahead. Ignoring my concerns, I trusted in SS-Traveller’s expertise, given his experience detailed in the Team-BHP article on driving in fog. However, the fog grew denser as we progressed, with visibility diminishing — a common challenge exacerbated by drivers relying solely on blinkers in these hazardous conditions. During our journey planning, we ensured to consider the availability of hotels in Lucknow for potential rest stops and accommodations, should the need arise during our late-night travel. As we continued our journey, the conditions deteriorated further, with the fog thickening to hazardous levels. The accompanying image serves as a testament to the severity of the fog. Despite the challenging conditions, we encountered numerous drivers who irresponsibly drove with their blinkers on, adding to the risks on the road.

SS-Traveller’s family in the car fell asleep halfway through the journey on the Yamuna Expressway, but despite my exhaustion, I remained alert like a bat. SS-Traveller’s skilled driving ensured that we reached Agra in approximately 4 hours.

After traveling about 50 kilometers beyond Agra, I decided to take over the driving duties. However, I quickly encountered challenging conditions. The dense fog showed no signs of clearing, and the Agra-Kanpur stretch, which I had traversed three times before, now featured numerous unfinished flyovers that forced us into narrow diversions. Fortunately, traffic was light, mainly consisting of a few trucks. My son provided real-time advice on navigating through the fog.

Despite my fatigue, I managed to drive approximately 130 kilometers before realizing that I was too exhausted to continue. Around 5 in the morning, we decided to pull over for a smoke break and to allow SS-Traveller to take control of the steering once again.

My mom fell asleep soon after, only waking up once we arrived in Kanpur. We made a brief stop after passing Kanpur as the sun began to rise, and I took over the steering wheel for the final stretch of the journey to Lucknow. The road conditions from Kanpur to Lucknow were initially rough, improving significantly once we crossed the Lucknow municipality border. Despite the early morning hour, we managed to navigate through the city traffic and reached our hotel by 9:30 AM after a total of 12 hours of driving.

Despite our fatigue, there was no time to rest. With our itinerary condensed to just two days, we needed to make the most of the remaining time. Without delay, we headed to Aminabad for lunch at the original Tunday Kababi outlet.

TUNDAY KABABI

The Food

Lucknow, renowned for its culinary heritage, offers a tantalizing array of non-vegetarian dishes that have captivated food enthusiasts for centuries. Steeped in rich Mughal influences and Nawabi traditions, Lucknow’s non-vegetarian fare reflects a perfect blend of flavors, aromas, and culinary techniques.

Chicken Korma

Lucknow’s Chicken Korma is a creamy, mildly spiced curry made with tender pieces of chicken cooked in a rich, nutty gravy made from yogurt, cream, and ground cashews. This dish showcases the finesse of Lucknowi cooking and is best enjoyed with naan or sheermal.

Chicken Korma floating in a bed of oil and spices

Biryani

Lucknow’s Dum Biryani is a culinary masterpiece that combines fragrant basmati rice with tender pieces of marinated meat, slow-cooked in a sealed pot (dum) to lock in the flavors. The resulting dish is rich, aromatic, and bursting with spices. Don’t miss trying the iconic Lucknowi Chicken Biryani or the royal Awadhi Mutton Biryani.

Street Food

Lucknow’s streets are a haven for food lovers, offering a vibrant assortment of chaats, samosas, and kachoris. Indulge in spicy Aloo Tikki Chaat topped with tangy chutneys and yogurt, or savor crispy and flaky samosas filled with spiced potatoes and peas. Don’t miss out on Lucknow’s famous basket chaat, a delightful medley of crunchy snacks served in a unique edible container made from fried dough

The Sites

Marvel at the Exquisite Interiors of Chhota Imambara

Constructed in 1837, the Chhota Imambara, also known as Hussainabad Imambara, offers a glimpse into the opulent Nawabi lifestyle. Adorned with intricate chandeliers, ornate calligraphy, and adorned chambers, it stands as a testament to architectural grandeur. Legend holds that it was erected to provide employment during a famine. The fusion of Arabic, Persian, and Mughal motifs creates a visually stunning experience. Commissioned by Nawab Muhammad Ali Shah, entry fees are 50 rupees for Indians and 200 rupees for foreigners. The evening unveils the central chandelier in all its glittering splendor, making it the ideal time to visit.

Rumi Darwaza

Capture stunning Instagram photos at Rumi Darwaza, a 60-foot architectural marvel in Lucknow inspired by Istanbul’s ancient gateway. Built in 1784 by Nawab Asaf-ud-Daula, this ornate structure blends Awadhi and Turkish design. It’s located next to Bara Imambara and offers intricate detailing on its panels, brackets, and turrets — a perfect backdrop for historical ‘grams. Entry is free, and the best times for photography are early mornings and evenings.

In conclusion

A visit to Lucknow is really special because you get to explore its rich history, friendly people, and delicious food. You can visit famous places like the Bara Imambara and Chota Imambara, which are important landmarks with beautiful architecture. Don’t forget to try the famous Galouti Kebabs and Lucknowi biryani, which are mouthwatering dishes that represent the city’s culinary heritage. Lucknow is also known for its chikankari embroidery and tasty street food, giving you a taste of its cultural diversity. Whether you’re interested in history, food, or just experiencing the kindness of the people, Lucknow will make you feel welcome and leave you with amazing memories. (I included everything I visited & it’s just a suggestion so you can change whatever you want!

A Journey to Lucknow — Janab, Muskuraiye! Kyunki Aap Lucknow Mein Hain 😊